Almost 11 years ago, two twentysomething newly weds, bright eyed and bushy tailed with nary a grey hair between them, headed to Sri Lanka on honeymoon. It was wonderful, very hard work, completely alien to anywhere else they had been. And now they return, older but no wiser, with many more grey hairs and oh, read on ..

When one is in Nuwara Eliya (affectionately NOT known as NE, but rather as some sort of slurred nelly – ahhh) one simply must take tea at St Andrews. Bypass the deprivation and those living under tin roofs held on against the monsoon only by tyres. Skirt away from those scrabbling to make a living read on ..

Sri Lanka is a beautiful land, tragically torn by strife. 11 years ago we were here when a massacre of troops took place in Trincomalee – 400 died in one night. Then, information was hard to come by with censorship blackout of any TV coverage and no internet; the only way we knew something was read on ..