Abel Tasman turned out to be everything we could have hoped for, and more. The first full day, we took a water taxi around the coast (spotting rare New Zealand fur seals en route) to be dropped at Tonga Bay – a glorious stretch of bright orange sand, almost deserted. In deference to the kids’ complaints that they did not get to do the 17k Tongariro Crossing with me, we tramped a very small part of the coastal path, through cicada laden bush over hills for a few kilometres. Again what a welcome find just near the point we were to be picked up from: a great restaurant at Awaroa Lodge! There are only small camping areas on the coastal path for those doing the whole 51kms, except for at Awaroa where there is this hidden, luxurious hotel. We had such a good lunch, we had to dash down to the water before our speedboat left without us. For the short boatride back we were alone except for one quiet lady, and the kids took the chance to sit in the open rear of the boat. We got DRENCHED. The kids were screaming with delight, and once the captain had established with a glance (and a grin) that they weren’t falling overboard or terrified, he swung the boat round, and went faster, to their squeals of delight. This was a real trip highlight for Jenna.
Not quite so much of a highlight was the ride in the campervan to and from the water taxi pick up point at Totaranui – 12 kilometres of gravel and dirt single track road winding up and up, then inevitably down and down. This was NOT a route designed for campervans at all, and I hung on to the ‘Jesus handles’ and winced around every hairpin as Joe drove incredibly well, despite my involuntary yelps and leaps to the side when a drop or a large Trooper-with-boat came straight at us around a bend. Poor Joe. He doesn’t have it easy with me as a passenger. Needless to say, I drove back!
Determined to make the most of this glorious place and to kick off any inertia we had developed in the north, we got up at some unearthly hour the next morning. After a very hasty breakfast we got to Tata Beach at 8.15am and met up as arranged with Golden Bay Kayaks. Our first experience of kayaking en famille, and we were doing it on the Tasman Sea – can’t be bad! Joe took the girls and I took Rhys, and the two biggest kids helped out as best they could with the paddling, to mixed effect, ahem. It was really quiet and calm as we headed out to two islands offshore, and the sea was totally transparent. We met another fur seal having a play on the rocks, and watched the petrels. Joe was all for pushing on around the headland to a hidden sandy beach, but I chickened out. The jetskiers and motorboats were out by this time causing far too much wake, and once away from the shelter of the islands there was a sea swell too. Though Rhys did try and help with the oars, he is only six … I was using muscles not accustomed to doing anything and getting blisters! So, the kids and I opted to head back to shore and play on the beach, leaving Joe free to go out and enjoy the experience in solitude for another hour (and without having to yell “Rowan, SLOW DOWN! One, Two, One Two! Oh, are you stopping AGAIN??”)
We did get a few sandfly bites on the beach, and they are one of the notorious nuisances of the north and west coasts of South Island. However they certainly weren’t in clouds nor unbearable, as we had read. More of a mild annoyance (and the bites really, really itch!) But please don’t let that put you off. The whole national park is far too wonderful to miss. After another great lunch in the blazing sunshine in nearby Takaka, we spent a quiet afternoon. About 10pm I was looking out of the window when I spotted a very odd light out there … I went out to check and we couldn’t believe it. There in the west, an enormous arc led to a bright, large yellowish white blob. It was a comet! We had seen a mention of Comet Naughton in the papers in North Island, but only in passing. Well, Comet Naughton had now moved to the south and we have never seen anything like it. We gaped and gaped. Rowan woke up, and we woke up Rhys (alas we did try to get Jen, but she refused), and we all went down to the beach to see it away from any light at all. The kids were blown away by this. It was amazingly clear and bright, you could see the whole huge tail, and it just looks so odd up there. I looked it up the next day, to find it’s the second brightest comet since records began and is only supposed to be visible for about a week. The clear skies of Abel Tasman had given us this rare light show, a miracle considering the lousy weather we had for much of the northern part of the NZ trip.
A comet! Another lifetime first, on this trip.
We had always fancied the look of the pretty deserted South Island, and these first few days ticked so many boxes. More than its fair share of natural beauty, great weather, great food, coast to die for and empty roads. Infact hardly ANY roads – the maps of much of South Island are just empty green bits with lots of crinkly mountains. It was such a relief to love the South, as we were not than enamoured with much of the North (too like the UK in many, many ways). We were refreshed and reinvigorated, and ready to tackle Glacier country.
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