Almost home

Switzerland for breakfast, elevensies in Lichtenstein, lunch in Austria and Germany for tea. You can tick off a lot of countries in Europe in a day. No one has given more than a cursory glance at the covers of our passports since Bulgaria; the European superstate is a reality. Yet each country retains a distinct identity: in a garage, a woman berated a customer for speaking French. This was Belgium; you must speak Flemish, that oh-so-global lingua franca!

Lichtenstein is basically a bit of Switzerland roped off. Pleasant enough for a break, but with little more than the town (oh sorry, capital) of Vaduz. The Austrian tirol was very pretty to drive through, but pouring rain and the distinct smell of burning brake pads were slightly off-putting. I must mention the state of our poor car, which like us is looking a bit worse for wear after 2.5 months and 6,000 miles on the road. We’re getting better at the basics of car maintenance. Most people do it all the time, but we were only nodding acquaintances to things like oil levels and tyre pressures until the car complained – refusing to come out of 4-wheel drive because the back tyres were so low it felt it was on a hill, and a small but constant oil leak. We phoned lovely Bob at the garage back home to book said car in for a makeover the day we get home.

We were tentative driving like this but soldiered on, knowing we were getting closer to home with each mile. With scant regard for our or the car’s wellbeing however we made a pretty (but maybe pretty unnecessary) detour to see Neuschwanstein, aka Baron Bomburst’s castle in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang, also apparently inspiration for Disney’s fairytale castles. The kids were asleep and grumpy to be awakened. We tried to enthuse them with a prize for who could guess what this place was. Rhys opened a bleary eye and for a moment removed his thumb to say, surlily, “Chitty Chitty Bang Bang”. Thumb back in, eyes closed. Prize won. Enthusiasm levels? Still low. We had coffee looking up at the glorious schloss, but were way behind schedule without time or kid’s enthusiasm to go in. We, plus car, soldiered on to Rothenburg ob. der Taube for a much-needed hotel break. Oh, how luxurious a cheap Best Western looked, with a BATH! It was bliss to sleep properly and get really clean. Before we left, we walked the walled medieval and stupidly pretty town of Rothenburg. Rowan levelled up by winning a small prize for spotting that this, consistent with our theme, was the square where the terrifying childcatcher had found the children in yes, Chitty Chitty Bang Bang. Bavaria was exquisite and we made a resolution to come back at Christmas time one year.

The main reason we were in Germany however was Hamburg, Joe’s sister and her family. We hared up the autobahn, as Jeremy Clarkson so rightly says, “Germany – the last bastion of the speed freak”, with speed limits being, by law, mere suggestions. Having driven 4 continents, 2 lanes of massive freight being overtaken by 200kph German brands held no fears. Alas poor car, with a year of luggage, roof box and 5 passengers was lucky to reach the suggested speed limit. Apart from a few frustrating hours approaching Hamburg itself we easily reached Jacqui, Sven, Joshua and Jeremy. We always love seeing them, and had a fantastic couple of days. The cousins get on like a house on fire, playing wildly all hours, and us adults talked and talked till 2am. Again, a proper bed! Again, showers! It didn’t feel at all weird not having seen them for so long, and their hospitality and generosity was wonderful.